We established the farm in 1972, at Loch Melfort on the West Coast of Scotland. We started with trout – it has always been a fish I am passionate about – but have farmed many species of fish over the years, including salmon and halibut. Now we only farm Steelhead Trout, the rainbow trout that naturally migrates to the sea. It’s just a truly exceptional fish, and our location, with all our abundant space and vast volume of water, full of natural currents and flow yet protected from the harsh ocean seas, is just the most wonderful environment for producing a big, athletic, firm-textured trout with a delicious, delicate flavour

How did you get involved in your business?

I grew up on an arable farm in Lincolnshire but it was a tough time for farmers, and I was looking for an opportunity to do my own thing. I always loved fishing – I used to go as a teenager with a school friend and catch trout, and sell them for beer coupons in the local pub! I was studying agriculture at HarperAdams when an article caught my eye about fish farms starting up in Denmark, and I investigated if anything similar was happening in the UK. I found a placement with Graeme and Kirsten Gordon in Galloway, who were farming trout into freshwater ponds, and the idea took hold of me that this could be something I could run with. It was terribly exciting as nobody had ever farmed them in the sea and freshwater lochs before.  

Where do you sell your products?

We sell HOG (head on, gutted) to a wide variety of retailers, wholesalers and smokers, from Waitrose to innovative start-ups like the Secret Smokehouse in London (who in turn sell to Fortnums).  We have set up our own direct mail order too, launching the Kames brand to the consumer for the first time and telling our story. 

What is your favourite part of the job?

Working in the most beautiful, remote locations and seeing my fish thrive in them. We are so lucky to live and work in one of the most untouched parts of the UK, with the most incredible community and work force, and I am always so glad I set up our business and our life here. 

Your least favourite part?

I find it hard to tolerate some of the lies and attacks that get around about fish farming, especially in the age of social media, where everyone can have a voice regardless of their real knowledge . Trout farming in particular has remained very much a small-scale industry that’s really a passion project for all of us, as trout is still very under-valued in the UK. We all want and strive to practice excellent husbandry that looks after our environment to provide a healthy and sustainable trout, but we need to work together with authorities and other farms to better educate people and to make them see that we are evolving solutions together. 

Why should we buy British produce?

It is far better practice to eat local – both in terms of carbon footprint and supporting our economy, and it will always taste better too. Also, compared to so much imported food, our standards are extremely high. Our fish have no added hormones or GMs in them, and I don’t think you could say that about much of the fish you buy across the pond, for example. 

Name someone in the food industry/business who you most admire?

I think the team at Loch Duart are doing a fantastic job - carving out a reputation for themselves as a top-end salmon producer in such a big market is not easy. They’ve been very focused and determined. 

What is your dinner tonight?

Trout! I am happy to have it lightly pan-fried in a little butter, with some potatoes and broad beans on the side, but my wife also does a very nice oven-baked version, with pesto, parmesan and breadcrumbs on top. Simple is best – the fish speaks for itself. 

Your favourite British product or ingredient?

Presumably I’m not allowed to say my own trout, so I’ll go back to my roots and say Lincolnshire haslet! It’s just delicious and you don’t get it in many places. I am quite obsessed with the myriad varieties of potato too – my current favourites are Epicure and Desiree. 

Give 4 words you would use to promote British food and drink?

Quality, passion, sustainable, delicious

Address

Kames Fish Farming, Kilmelford by Oban, Argyll, PA34 4XA