In early June 2024, Love British Food hosted 23 people from across the NHS in Wales for a once-in-a-lifetime visit to Patrick and Becky Holden’s farm, Bwlchwernen Fawr near Lampeter, in West Wales.

Patrick Holden CBE is one of the world’s leading campaigners for sustainable food and farming and is one of His Majesty The King’s most trusted advisors on the subject. He was a Director of the Soil Association before founding The Sustainable Food Trust in 2011 in response to the worsening human and environmental crises that are associated with the vast majority of today’s food and farming systems. He is an advisor and participant in HM The King’s Terra Carta initiative. 

The farm

Bwlchwernen Fawr is Patrick and Becky Holden’s 300 acre farm where they milk 80 Ayrshrie cows and produces the award-winning Haford raw milk cheese.

The farm has been certified organic since 1973, making it the longest standing registered organic dairy farm in Wales. Patrick and Becky have developed the farm into a self-sufficient, sustainable base from which they produce one of the finest Cheddars on the market today.

The milk they use to make Haford cheese is a reflection of the unique ecology of the farm as well as the cows diet: diverse and complex nutrients which give the cheese its unique quality and flavour. Every decision Patrick and Becky make has a direct influence on the quality of the milk. From the quality and sustainability of the feed for the cows, to the ideal climate, to the storage and ageing process; each step has a direct implication on the final mouthful. 

They also grow oats and peas; wheat for flour milling; and used to grow carrots for the supermarkets for 25 years.

Who was there

Love British Food’s Founder and CEO, Alexia Robinson, facilitated the day with the support of Patrick, Aled Guy, Head of Sustainability, NHS Wales Shared Services Partnership and Darren Hughes, Director Welsh NHS Confederation. It was a brilliant day with so much engagement from all those who attended: from Hywel Dda UHB, NWSSP, Velindre UHB, NHS Wales, All Wales Procurement and Menu Framework, Castel Howell, Harlech Foodservice, Puffin Produce, Aberystwyth University, Sustain Wales, 4 the Region, Wales Net Zero Challenge Group, Green Health Wales, WFG and Sustain Wales.

The day

The day started with a farm tour led by Patrick Holden to see the restorative farming practices and to hang on his every word as he inspired everyone with his vision for a sustainable food system in Wales.

As well as seeing the Holden Dairy, we saw a field of carrots that Patrick is growing to supply schools in Carmarthenshire. In Patrick’s words: “Feeding Wales from the ground up.”

We then had the most delicious lunch made by Patrick’s wife, Becky and a lively, hugely productive discussion on:

• Opportunities and challenges for how NHS Wales and farmers and food producers can work together to achieve robust supply chains of nutritious food in harmony with the environment. 
• How buying food that is produced in harmony with the environment will help NHS Wales meet its sustainability and net zero goals.
• How food produced in this way is often more nutritious as a result and will contribute to patient well-being and recovery.
• How introducing flexible menus can accommodate seasonal produce.
• Ways to counteract the cost debate…need it really be more expensive? How to accommodate any increased unit cost through fortnightly menus. Advice for working with procurement teams to write tenders to attract SME producers. How to involve dietitians, the senior nurse and indeed Trust CEO in the move to more sustainable sourcing.
• Why this is important for the community that Trusts are in.
• The work that Love British Food is doing in conjunction with NHS Wales to inspire Trusts across the UK to seek out quality British produce for their patient and staff menus: the knowledge sharing platforms, national programme of farm visits and support available.
• Welsh Food Fortnight in the autumn (part of British Food Fortnight)….and how everyone can take part!

What was achieved

Highlights from the day, in the words of Aled Guy, Head of Sustainability, NHS Wales Shared Services Partnership:

1. Farm Insights: Everyone’s engagement during the tour allowed us to explore sustainable and seasonal food practices firsthand. We appreciated everyone’s curiosity and enthusiasm.
2. Productive Discussions: The discussions we had around sustainable farming practices were invaluable. The insights of all who attended will undoubtedly inform our future initiatives.
3. Networking: Connecting with each other was a pleasure. I firmly believe that fostering these relationships will lead to meaningful future collaborations.
4. Hosts: A special thank you to Patrick & Beccy for hosting us at their farm. Their hospitality and expertise were instrumental in creating a memorable experience. Thank you to Alexia too!!

What is so encouraging is that a true partnership between Love British Food and the Welsh NHS Confederation has been established, working together to promote sustainable food practices within NHS Wales.

There was even a discussion around whether Wales could become a global leader at putting sustainable food on hospital menus.

With the leadership and determination everyone showed on the day, anything is possible! It was the most visionary discussion and an astonishingly happy and successful farm visit. 

Comments from those who attended:

“The discussions we had around sustainable farming practices were invaluable and will undoubtedly inform our future initiatives."

"It was a really enjoyable and thought provoking day. Lots of ideas fizzing away since. It's helped me form coherent thoughts. Spending time with like-minded colleagues has reinvigorated my enthusiasm. And has helped me to form some more coherent thoughts around how to make some in-roads to this challenge. Hopefully I can put forward a few proposals and we can work together to change things for the better.”

“The day was thoroughly enjoyable and informative. We're keen to be in the loop on this absolutely crucial issue. I really hope something comes of this.”

“It was a great day – I don’t get to have many days at work like that! I look forward to taking this forward together, somehow, in the future.”

“I had a hugely inspirational day and like others a new-found enthusiasm to move this forward.”

“Alexia, it really was a great day and huge thanks to you for making it all possible! I thought you did a brilliant job at the end of summarising it all and making sure there was some forward action. Hopefully Darren, Aled and I will now arrange a summit meeting of some kind to take this to the next stage. What a service you are providing bringing all these people together to farms and creating an environment for change. We would love to work with you in the future and should definitely talk about how we can do that to mutual gain.” 

Patrick Holden CBE